Friday, December 10, 2010

Off to play in Princess Mononoke's Woods (Part 2)

It's still raining in Oregon...

After a rather humorous start to our Yakushima trip, day 2 was an absolute blast. Since we had the car for the rest of the day, we decided to drive around the entire perimeter of the island. As it isn't a large island by any means, a drive around the entire perimeter of Yakushima takes approximately 3 hours - but why would anyone do that when there are so many things to see on the island? Throwing our luggage into the car, we got ready for a day around the island.
(Fields and Mountains)

Heading east this time, we headed towards the port town of Anbo(安房) so that I could finally withdraw some money. From there, we proceeded to hike along various trails, taking in the gorgeous coast and forests before heading to our first destination - a short hike to see Senpiro Waterfall (千尋の滝.) Along the way, we tried the local citrus juice known as Tankan juice, which tastes like a combination of tangerine and orange. When we got to the viewing platform, it was a little disappointing that we could not see the waterfall at a closer range but it was gorgeous nonetheless.

(Rocky Coasts)
 (Land crabs where everywhere)

Back on the road, we decided to look for an onsen (温泉) to relax in. Near the southern part of the island, there are various onsen which overlook the sea known as kaichu-onsen (海中温泉。)Kaichu-onsen was something that we all wanted to experience while we were in Yakushima. Eventually we came across a small one with just a donation box at the entrance. This bare minimal approach was perfect for student travelers as it certainly kept costs down. I don't know what came over us, maybe it was something about the Yakushima atmosphere but we dashed towards that onsen with more excitment than children at Christmas. Throwing off all our clothes in the blink of an instant, we hopped frantically over the sun-baked rocks in a vicious dash towards the inviting water. Surrounded by tropical blooms and the southern sea breeze - it was a moment of pure bliss. Little did we know, the money lost to the god of the ocean was being put to good use and our luck was about to change. Out of the blue, a little old man appeared and approached us. Curious to know where we were from, he stuck up a conversation with us. Turns out, he was a local on the island and looked at us as if we were crazy. "There is a much better onsen just a little ways away from her" he exclaimed, "you guys really fell for the trap" he chuckled while proceeding to show us the path to the real onsen experience. Following him down a rocky path in nothing more than the option hand to cover the man-junk we skipped on down after him. We were not let down. What lay ahead was a onsen build directly into the boulders protruding from the ocean overlooking a vast expanse of blue - not only that, the man insisted we take a swim in the ocean as well which was invitingly cool after soaking in the hot water. If there is one thing you should know about Japan, it is that nude frolicking is not out of the ordinary.

(Onsen looking out and part of the sea)

Satisfying our onsen itch, the old man recommended that we buy lunch and head out to a waterfall much better than senpiro falls - "Okawanotani (大川の滝)" he proclaimed in a southern dialect "is grander than senpiro falls! Buy a lunch box at a convenience store up the street and settle down there for lunch!" Thanking him for this suggestion, we hopped back into our car and headed for the waterfall. Oh, old man, you did not dissapoint us. This waterfall was beautiful. Surrounded by lush greens, one could walk so close to the waterfall as to feel its thunderous roar pounding at your chest. During our lunch break, the old man appeared again! This time, he insisted on taking our picture at the foot of the falls - which requires a certain amount of climbing to reach. Needless to say, we got some pretty spectacular shots. Thanking him again profusely, we headed back to the car to continue our journey around the island.
 (Okawa waterfall)
(Grooming monkeys on the road)

Heading into a much more forested area of the island, we were greeted by a pack of monkeys grooming each other on the sun-dappled roads. Showing no fear of humans, we had to navigate through the pack very slowly as to not run over them. In addition, we would also encounter lots of little deer which were a little more skittish than the monkeys. After an extremely winding and narrow trail (about the width of 1 car) and near collision with oncoming cars, we finally broke out of the forest and onto a road which round around the cliffs overlooking the sea. In all honesty, it is a majestically beautiful place in all aspects.  Coming round to the end of our drive, we proceeded to our next destination - our lodgings for the night!

(Starry Sky and the Milky Way)

We had decided to camp out on the second day of our trip complete with an ocean barbecue. Gathering our supplies we set up camp back at a campsite in Miyanoura and spent close to an hour trying to light a fire. When we finally succeeded it was pitch black. However, with the fire going, copious booze and seafood, we were treated by a truly outstanding night sky. A completely clear and cloudless night, the stars scattered as far as the eye could sea and the milky way twisting its way from the mountains behind us. It was truly one of the most beautiful things I have had the pleasure to experience in my life. Content and rather drunk, we decided to tuck in and leave the cleaning for the next morning. While we slept, it appears that wildlife had cleaned up our leftovers for us, as we awoke to garbage scattered throughout the campsite and all our leftovers consumed. That certainly explains the commotion outside during the middle of the night.
 (Sunrise at camp)

(End day 2)

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Off to play in Princess Mononoke's Woods (Part 1)

(Outside our bed and breakfast)
I'll take some time to write a summer travel log in this dreary winter weather.
Back in September, I finally had a chance to visit a place I've been wanting to go to for a very long time. If you have had the chance to see Hayao Miyazaki's "Princess Mononoke" You might remember the beautiful forests that the Kodama's, Princess Mononoke (San) and Wolves resided in. The forest in fact, is based off an ancient forest in Yakushima (屋久島), an island off Kagoshima prefecture (鹿児島県) - and is said to rain almost constantly. Yes, after seeing the movie when it first came out, I have wanted to go to Yakushima.

(Navigation is simple in Yakushima)
Being the last trip big trip before my life as a salaryman, I wanted this trip to be epic and epic it was, in good ways and bad. Booking our ticket at H.I.S and with a group of some of my closest friends, we headed for Kagoshima by air. From Kagoshima, we stopped for a delicious sushi lunch before boarding a hydrofoil to Yakushima island. Initially, things did not look good. A typhoon had just passed and the waves were rocky at best. However, when we approached the island, the weather began to clear and we were welcomed to Yakushima by blue skies, clear oceans and misty mountains. Checking in to our bread and breakfast, we decided to rent a car to explore the island. Being a circular island, navigation through Yakushima is not really an issue. Starting from Miyanoura (宮之浦) we headed west to begin our journey. Coming across a white sand beach with crystal clear waters after no more than 10 minutes of driving boded well for the remainder of the journey; some silliness in the water and sand later, we headed towards Nagata (永田), a beach famous for its sea turtle nesting sites.
(Nagata beach)

It was there that disaster struck.

Since the typhoon had just passed, the waves were a little choppy, we decided to take a group picture when the my wallet fell into the ocean! Taking off my shorts and leaving them on the beach, I dove in after my wallet - managed to recover everything, except for 900 dollars in cash!! A truly FML moment. To add insult to injury, a big wave rolled in around the same time, swallowing my my cell phone AND pants into the afternoon swell.

Fantastic.

So basically, after swimming in the ocean frantically collecting the banknotes that were floating around in the waves, I was left without pants, 900 dollars and cellphone. Riding back to the bed and breakfast in nothing but boxers, a state of shock and a very large donation to the ruler of the seas we settled in for dinner, a delicious combination of pork dishes, bitter gourd, sashimi and and a whole deep-fried flying fish. After the beach ordeal, beer had never tasted so good.


(Deep-fried Flying Fish)


That was just day one.

First Business Trip!


I miss sunshine... Apparently, Tokyo has been warm and sunny for the last week or so. I, on the other hand, I'm on my business trip in the United States for just under a month... I haven't been back long but I already feel like I haven't moved in ages - its something about the culture of automobiles that makes me really lazy. Even if I wanted to go out for a jog, I've only seen two sunny days in the entire week...
On the plus side, got to go to Canada, Washington and Oregon, all places I've never been. I must say, seafood around the pacific northwest area is pretty good - they have got bountiful resources for some pretty fresh product.
The picture is a seafood meal I had somewhere on the Seattle waterfront - delicious!